In one little corner of Merrion Row that is forever Dublin, to hopelessly misquote Rupert Brooke, a burgeoning foodie empire is rapidly unfolding. It all emanated from a simple little eatery, namely the Unicorn Minor in Merrion Court, off Merrion Row.
Founded in 1948 by an Italian family, it was run for many years by Miss Dom. This was the informal pizza and pasta end of their other, more formal Unicorn restaurant on Merrion Row. The Merrion Row Unicorn closed, but the Unicorn Minor thrived,
and extended along the mews-type houses of the laneway. Saturday lunch was when you'd see the glitterati while away an afternoon here.
In 1995, the Unicorn was acquired by Giorgio Casari and Jeff Stokes, husband of Pia Bang, and has expanded to include the Unicorn Cafe and Food Emporium, and Number 5. In addition, Jeff and Pia's sons, Simon and Christian, opened Bang Cafe on Merrion Row,
and the private members club, Residence, around the corner on Stephen's Green. There are also ambitious plans to redevelop the Unicorn site.
Meanwhile, Jeff and Giorgio have just opened Il Segreto, a restaurant in the former Sherry Fitzgerald premises on Merrion Row. The restaurant is tucked away, as the estate agents might say, behind an arched, frontal wall.
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